Getting Lost at Sumidero Canyon (San Cristobal, Mexico)

Wednesday, August 17, 2022

I stumble off the night bus and walk to my hostel on the opposite side of town. Posada del Abuelito is a cool little compound with outdoor common spaces. The receptionist gives me the tour in Spanish because I somehow convinced her I would understand. I actually do understand most but not all of what she said, which is progress. The kitchen here is nice and I like all the little common spaces, but it’s a bit cold here so it doesn’t feel super cozy. It’s also a bit out of the way which I didn’t love.

I head a bit away to work while waiting to check in (since it’s too early) at Sarajevo Jardín Cafe. I had some waffles and juice which were pretty good. Then I check in, and I’m in the mood for Indian food so I go nearby to a place called Cardamomo. This place ended up being kind of expensive and I can’t say the food was bad, but it wasn’t what I was looking for and it was very lacking in sauce (which is important for Indian food…).

I was really in the mood for hot chocolate so I walked to Sarajevo Jardín Cafe again to grab some, and it didn’t disappoint. This was just what I needed since the hostel is a bit chilly.

Views from Guadalupe Church

Thursday, August 18, 2022

This morning I headed out on the walking tour, and to be honest I didn’t learn too much. We toured the artisan market as well as the municipal market which were cool to have a guide for. I also learned a bit about the people here which was interesting.

Then I moved to Puerta Vieja Hostel. Immediately, I love the property and it seems really social. The dorm is also super comfortable and roomy. They also have a kitchen and bar.

For lunch I go to Achiote per the tour guide’s recommendation. They have really great cochinita here that you have to try (the area is known for it). For dinner I go to Cafebar 500 Noches which served me a small portion of mediocre pasta, but they had live music which I enjoyed.

Then I headed back to the hostel where I grabbed a beer and chatted with some English people. The hostel is super lively and I honestly don’t know when it winds down so if you’re a light sleeper, you might want to ask for a room away from the back patio. It also fills up so book ahead.

Sumidero Canyon

Friday, August 19, 2022

This morning I went to the candy market where I didn’t actually end up buying anything. I think the candies are available a bit later because when I went it was mostly just clothing and souvenirs.

Then I went to the artisan market where I got a shirt and amber bracelets for myself and my friends. I walked to Guadalupe Church to climb the stairs. I’m not sure when the bell tower opens, but I went at noon and it was not open, so I didn’t really get to see the views I came for.

Next I went to Sarajevo Cafe Jardín to work again, where I got pizza that was just alright. For dinner I went back to Achiote.

Plaza de los Héroes

Saturday, August 20, 2022

It’s the weekend so I’m heading to Sumidero Canyon. I didn’t really find a group to go with, so I’m going alone. I found my way to the entrance of the boat tour by taking just one colectivo. To get there, go to the main road near the ADO/OCC station and find the colectivos. Tell the driver you want to go to Cahuare, and he will drop you off right before the turn to Tuxtla.

When I got there, I paid 270 pesos for a 2 hour boat ride. It’s not covered so I did get a bit sunburned. At the end, we pulled up to a floating bar where we could buy beers and snacks. Since I was alone, after the boat tour I just headed back to the bus stop. 

On the way back either take the white colectivos straight to San Cristobal or if you find you cannot catch one, take another colectivo a few minutes down the road to Santa Fe. The company has an office here and they will put you on a colectivo to San Cristobal, but you may have to wait in line for a while.

The colectivos cost 55 pesos each way, maybe a couple extra if you have to go to Santa Fe. According to everyone I talked to, there are not reliable colevtivos to San Cristobal from Chiapas de Corzo, even though this is what I read online (sort of).

I actually stood by the side of the road forever waiting for a colectivo to come. Some stopped but no one was going to San Cristobal. Eventually I gave up and decided to catch a colectivo to Chiapas de Corzo. I figured if we went through there on the way here, I could get off and find a colectivo to San Cristobal from there. After riding for a while, it became clear that this wasn’t true. 

The people kind of laughed at me but I knew I wasn’t going to wait any longer on the side of the road so this was still progress. The bus driver is the person who told me to get off at Santa Fe. There was a long line there for rides to San Cristobal, which is where I realized that all of the San Cristobal colectivos had been passing me on the road because they were full. This company wasn’t the same as the one I took here so I’m not sure what was going on with that, but just be aware that the guides online were not entirely correct here.

When I got home I went to Taqueria El Charrito which had mediocre cochinita tacos. Not a great end to a long day.

Guadalupe Church

Sunday, August 21, 2022

This morning I worked from Cafeologia. For lunch I went to El Tacleto which was pretty good but awkward because no one else was in there. Then I picked up a blanket at the market and got a very interesting cacao drink from Academia Mercado de Cacao.

I stopped into the Plaza de los Héroes and the Museum of Art because it looked really beautiful. For dinner I went to Namandi and got a delicious club sandwich and then called it a night because I have a bus to catch early in the morning.

Sumidero Canyon

Check Out My Guide to San Cristobal

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